Norway, Day 4

June 24

Today was another quintessential summer day, with sunlight so brilliant I can actually feel the tinge of a sunburn on my neck. No doubt the sun's effect was magnified by being on the water all day. This happy circumstance came about because Barnt -- who until recently worked at Camphill -- offered to take us out on his boat. I don't know what I expected; perhaps an hour or so of pleasuring about. But Barnt & his wife, Erika, had something more in mind.

Barnt & Erika picked us up after lunch in a boat which I think was called the Casseopeia. The boat wasn't awfully large, 7 m perhaps, a wooden lapstrake touring boat in a classy-but-in-need-of-repair condition. We spent a good hour motoring out to some small islets near the mouth of the fjord. The islets were amazing. There were perhaps 20 of them, rounded rocks rising like whales' backs out of the water. There was very little space between them -- maybe a couple of meters. However, the space was just enough for a small boat to slip through into the protected water. Lots of other boats were already nestled between the rocks and their passengers were spread out over the rocks with picnic chairs and portable barbeques and children in swimming suits. We cruised on a little further until we found an islet to ourselves, tied up, pulled out the barbeque, and made ourselves comfortable.

While Barnt fired up the barbeque & Rhia & Eivind worked up the courage to go swimming, I explored the islet. When a Canadian thinks of 'Norway' what do we think of? Fish, perhaps, & spectacular fjords with lots of fishing boats. I would never have imagined the delicate beauty of that islet. Although from the water it looked like a lump of rock, scrubbed smooth & clean by glaciers, it had a surprising interior. Wherever there was an indent or a cranny or a crack, a microenvironment had formed. The islet was dotted with tiny rock gardens dense with yellow, purple, white and pink flowers. There were rose bushes and tiny cherry trees, a miniature bog and 2 little lakes that looked like something out of a Japanese painting. Barnt said that long ago people even lived on the islets. I can understand the attraction but I do wonder how they handled such practicalities as drinking water, food, firewood, and cabin fever....

When I returned, the picnic was almost ready. We had potatoes and mackerel, tea and honey cake with butter. Rhia & Eivind did go swimming after all & said the water really wasn't all that cold -- apparently it gets heated up by the rocks all around.

We didn't get back on shore until 7:00 & not back at Camphill until after 9 but in spite of the tiredness & sunburn it was truly a great day.